Titicaca Lake, a story between Peru and Bolivia
Following the Machu Pichu and its tourist tsunami, we headed toward Puno and the Titicaca lake.
I remember myself at primary school having quite a laugh when hearing this name. The lake spreads across Bolivia and Peru, and our Peruvian friends were fast to tell us that the Titi is in Peru while the Caca is in Bolivia. I did not know if it was cynicism or humor. You can't never tell with these guys.
Anyway, we did not have the time to check this saying. Arrived by a night bus from Cusco at 6:00 AM, we were already on a boat sailing the lake at 6:40 AM toward some of its islands.
The Lake is very impressive : at an altitude of 4000 meters and being 200 km long, it is one of the highest navigable lakes in the world. It contains some islands where people have created cultures and civilizations that differs from the ones on the mainland. The Uros, for example, sought refuge « on » the lake away from the Incas. Actually, they still live on floating islands that they build from « totora », a reed that grows on the lake. They use it nearly for everything : to build boats and houses, as a fuel for cooking and it is a key ingredient of their diet. A floating island can last around 40 years, it is then sold to the local farmers that will recycle it into a fertilizer. You can hardly imagine something greener that this.
Leaving Puno and the Peruvian side of the lake, we took a bus to Copacabana, Bolivia. Don't get fooled, I am talking about the real one that gave its name to beach in Rio de Janeiro.
Crossing the border was a piece of cake. After getting new stamps on our passeports, we noticed a massive egg traffic from Bolivia to Peru. After asking an independent expert (aka our bus driver), we learned that since eggs are cheaper in Bolivia, Peruvian people stock up before going back home.
Copacabana has also a beach, on the shore of lake Titicaca. But with a water averaging at 7°C, do not expect a large crowd. Actually, the masses can be found rather around the church. When a Boliviano buy a vehicle, he needs to bring it to Copacabana for a blessing. Even Peruanos do the trip for what seems to be mandatory and I can assure you that there was a line in front of the church longer than in front of Mac Drive a Saturday night.
How does it work ? You pimp your ride newly-weds-car-style. After the priest very seriously blesses it you sprinkle on it champagne or beer (matter of taste) and rice and flower petals, insisting on the wheels and the engine.
A gent, whose aging Toyota preferred whisky, asked me if we had something similar back home. I answered him that we have a thing called insurance and it is not that reliable neither. But with the blessing costing 1€, who can beat it ?
Even if you cannot drive here you brand new car, doing the whole ceremony on a miniature is permitted. You will find plenty in front of the church.
Not having a car to bless, we crossed the lake (our bus was on a boat and the passengers on another one) as we needed to keep moving toward La Paz.
Karim
I remember myself at primary school having quite a laugh when hearing this name. The lake spreads across Bolivia and Peru, and our Peruvian friends were fast to tell us that the Titi is in Peru while the Caca is in Bolivia. I did not know if it was cynicism or humor. You can't never tell with these guys.
Anyway, we did not have the time to check this saying. Arrived by a night bus from Cusco at 6:00 AM, we were already on a boat sailing the lake at 6:40 AM toward some of its islands.
The Lake is very impressive : at an altitude of 4000 meters and being 200 km long, it is one of the highest navigable lakes in the world. It contains some islands where people have created cultures and civilizations that differs from the ones on the mainland. The Uros, for example, sought refuge « on » the lake away from the Incas. Actually, they still live on floating islands that they build from « totora », a reed that grows on the lake. They use it nearly for everything : to build boats and houses, as a fuel for cooking and it is a key ingredient of their diet. A floating island can last around 40 years, it is then sold to the local farmers that will recycle it into a fertilizer. You can hardly imagine something greener that this.Leaving Puno and the Peruvian side of the lake, we took a bus to Copacabana, Bolivia. Don't get fooled, I am talking about the real one that gave its name to beach in Rio de Janeiro.Crossing the border was a piece of cake. After getting new stamps on our passeports, we noticed a massive egg traffic from Bolivia to Peru. After asking an independent expert (aka our bus driver), we learned that since eggs are cheaper in Bolivia, Peruvian people stock up before going back home.
Copacabana has also a beach, on the shore of lake Titicaca. But with a water averaging at 7°C, do not expect a large crowd. Actually, the masses can be found rather around the church. When a Boliviano buy a vehicle, he needs to bring it to Copacabana for a blessing. Even Peruanos do the trip for what seems to be mandatory and I can assure you that there was a line in front of the church longer than in front of Mac Drive a Saturday night.
How does it work ? You pimp your ride newly-weds-car-style. After the priest very seriously blesses it you sprinkle on it champagne or beer (matter of taste) and rice and flower petals, insisting on the wheels and the engine.A gent, whose aging Toyota preferred whisky, asked me if we had something similar back home. I answered him that we have a thing called insurance and it is not that reliable neither. But with the blessing costing 1€, who can beat it ?
Even if you cannot drive here you brand new car, doing the whole ceremony on a miniature is permitted. You will find plenty in front of the church.
Not having a car to bless, we crossed the lake (our bus was on a boat and the passengers on another one) as we needed to keep moving toward La Paz.
Karim
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